Gift pick: Coffee connoisseur festive hamper from The East India Company

GO AND FIND THE REAL THING – There are limits to this of course. In the case of some obscure fish, I’m not often in a position to don a wetsuit and jump in the deep if it lives at the bottom of the inky blue, but there’s always a fish market. HANDLE THE THING – If it’s got bones, feel where they lie. If it’s got skin, get familiar with the feel and texture: hairy, bald, feathery, scaly, bit gooey, slippery, a bit want-to-put-it-down-and-run. Move it around. Check out the way the shadows play on the dips and curves. TAKE IT HOME TO MEET THE FAMILY – If I…